Wall Sandwich Panels

As one of the largest manufacturers of modular building systems in the U.S., we have extensive capabilities and experience in designing and laminating sandwich and wall panels for a wide variety of interior applications. Typical laminated panels utilize foam, wood, or honeycomb cores sandwiched between high strength facing and substrate materials to produce lightweight panels with specific characteristics.

If you are looking for more details, kindly visit Xindian Construction.

Standard Sandwich Panel Specifications

• Materials: Foam, wood, honeycomb cores
• Sizes: Up to 4 ft. x 20 ft.
• Thicknesses: Up to 6 inches
• R-values: Varies by core material
• Fire Rating: Class A non-combustible options available
• Acoustic Properties: Sound deadening panels available

The following list shows some of our most commonly requested sandwich panels. Most of these can be made in various thicknesses with alternative faces and such. You can request a quote for a sandwich wall panel here.

If you are looking for more details, kindly visit Thermal Insulation Carved Metal Composite Sandwich Panels.

In neither of these designs, is insulation (from heat or sound) generally considered. I go camping to get away from the hustle and bustle. I don't want to freeze my butt off or hear motorcycles riding through camp at midnight. So, there are two strategies to resolve this, in my opinion. Instead of trying to make one product do everything, i.e. strong, light, easy to build, good heat and sound insulation, readily available materials, and so on, you choose several products that excel at doing one or two things.

If you want a lightweight panel, you are going to be stuck using a low-density foam that isn't going to be super strong, and thin skins, nominally fiberglass, carbon fiber, Kevlar, Filon, aluminum, Vetroresina or the like. There is NOTHING wrong with this panel. It simply lacks ultimate strength, likely due to the core material chosen. A foam that weighs 1 to 5 pounds per cubic foot can only have so much strength. Is it fine for a small truck camper or DIY tow-behind camper trailer? Most certainly. Does it have the strength of a commercially-produced part from a defence contractor or an F1 team? Nope and that is OK. That strength isn't likely necessary.

The compromise comes in when the average DIY guy or girl looks at the cost of quality foams, resins, cloths, tools and labour - time is money - and says, "Heck no, man, I will just build my camper with plywood and TremClad." Again, there is nothing wrong with this, but that design lacks heat and sound insulation, ultimate strength, longevity, requires maintenance, etc. This is the path that most people choose and it is a good one for 90% of applications, so long as the wood is stained, sealed, charred, painted, oiled, etc., If it isn't, well, go look at an old Alaskan camper and you will see what I mean.

Exploring the marine, Formula 1 and aerospace worlds a few years ago, I came across a product that looks a lot like a bee honeycomb, made from a very thin aluminum foil.

Alloy Rigicell Aluminum Corrugated Honeycomb by HexCell with CR-PAA and CR III coatings. 1/8 &#; 2 &#; .-STD &#; 14.5 PPCF &#; PSI crush strength &#; to PSI compressive strength &#; 650 KSI compressive modulus &#; PSI shear &#; 260 KSI shear modulus (L) &#; PSI shear strength &#; 80 KSI shear modulus (W).

Compare this core material to Polypropylene honeycomb or a structural foam and you will see that it blows the doors off damn near everything. It is quite difficult to obtain and work with and is exhorbitantly expensive. "So, what comes close?", I asked myself. Well, aluminum is pretty light and strong, used in marine, transport and aircraft applications and is the basis of this core material for a reason. How could I construct a core out of aluminum without the specialised equipment required to make this honeycomb? Use a cheaper, lighter, simpler version of what is already on the market, is the answer. I got samples of Coosa BlueWater 15, 20 and 26, Celtec, Plascore, HDPE and several structural foams and wasn't really impressed with any of them once costs, lead times, shipping, sound damping, insulation and all other factours were considered.

Ultimate strength version, e.g. truck bodies, trailer decks, boat hulls, etc.: (not small, lightweight camper boxes)

Purchase a 2" x 2" x 0. - 0.125" wall square tube from your favourite metal supplier, along with a 0. to 0.125" thick sheet for the skin. Lay out all of the tubes, edge to edge - think roll up sushi mat, and tape (VHB), glue or weld them together. This is your core. You should have something that looks like the inside of corrugated cardboard or a DIY log raft, when you are done. Next lay the skin of your choice over this core material and tape, bond or weld it in place, repeat for the other side.

You now have an incredibly strong panel that is completely customisable by changing the width, height and wall thickness of the tubing used for the core, as well as the material type of the core and skin. An all-aluminum sandwich panel will have terrible acoustical and insulative properties, so you will need to make use of radiant barrier coatings, room-in-a-room, Sylomer, Aliphatic Polyurea or other products to resolve these problems. A foam cored panel will have much better insulation, for example, but there is nothing that you can do to it to make it "strong". You can insulate and damp a strong panel by using other products designed to accomplish those tasks.

Another option is to make use of a plastic tubing, such as this one, for the core material.

2" OD x 0.078" Wall PVC Square Hollow Tubing | U.S. Plastic Corp.

This PVC hollow square tubing is priced per foot and sold in 10' lengths only. 10' lengths are nominal. The color is dark gray.

This tubing would replace the alloy tubing in the example above and could be skinned with composite sheeting, such as Filon, Phenolic, Vetroresina or even a thin sheet of aluminum or sealed plywood. In a sandwich panel of any design, the skins carry tensile (30-42k for ) and compressive loads (10M PSI for ) and the core carries the shear load ( &#; PSI for 14.5 PPCF Hexcell). So, you want a thick core (taller I-Beam) with high shear strength, and skins with high tensile and compressive strength. Cheap sandwich panels often fail due to weak cores, placing stress on thin/cheap skins, that quickly buckle once they are no longer supported by a core.

Lightweight/cheap version: Get XPS foam from your local hardware store, along with your favourite sheet goods. Insert framing members (dimensional lumber, alloy square tubing, etc) to carry the shear load, as foam sucks at this job. Laminate the framed core, i.e. a picture frame or a tic-tac-toe grid made with tubing and the foam as the picture, plugs or panels within your chosen structure and skin combination. This panel will not have the very best strength-to-weight ratio, but it will be fairly light and will have better insulation than the alloy tubing based panel above. Alternatively, exterior framing can be attached to the panel or the finished camper box, in the form of aluminum, steel or fiberglass angle iron to stiffen the structure and reduce shearing/racking loads on the panel and its quite weak, by comparison, foam core.

The strongest core material that I can find on the market has a shear strength of about 3,000 PSI. It is absurdly expensive, has a long lead time, and is quite difficult to work with, according to the manufacturer. An off-the-shelf tube that anyone can buy, has a shear strength 10 TIMES this amount and is quite easy to work with, by way of comparison.

I see that there are two basic design strategies for building panels: (a) light and relatively strong, e.g. low-density foam of some kind and carbon or Kevlar skins or (b) something heavier and likely a bit stronger, but not necessarily, e.g. plywood, fiberglass, metal tubing or wood framing, etc.In neither of these designs, is insulation (from heat or sound) generally considered. I go camping to get away from the hustle and bustle. I don't want to freeze my butt off or hear motorcycles riding through camp at midnight. So, there are two strategies to resolve this, in my opinion. Instead of trying to make one product do everything, i.e. strong, light, easy to build, good heat and sound insulation, readily available materials, and so on, you choose several products that excel at doing one or two things.If you want a lightweight panel, you are going to be stuck using a low-density foam that isn't going to be super strong, and thin skins, nominally fiberglass, carbon fiber, Kevlar, Filon, aluminum, Vetroresina or the like. There is NOTHING wrong with this panel. It simply lacks ultimate strength, likely due to the core material chosen. A foam that weighs 1 to 5 pounds per cubic foot can only have so much strength. Is it fine for a small truck camper or DIY tow-behind camper trailer? Most certainly. Does it have the strength of a commercially-produced part from a defence contractor or an F1 team? Nope and that is OK. That strength isn't likely necessary.The compromise comes in when the average DIY guy or girl looks at the cost of quality foams, resins, cloths, tools and labour - time is money - and says, "Heck no, man, I will just build my camper with plywood and TremClad." Again, there is nothing wrong with this, but that design lacks heat and sound insulation, ultimate strength, longevity, requires maintenance, etc. This is the path that most people choose and it is a good one for 90% of applications, so long as the wood is stained, sealed, charred, painted, oiled, etc., If it isn't, well, go look at an old Alaskan camper and you will see what I mean.Exploring the marine, Formula 1 and aerospace worlds a few years ago, I came across a product that looks a lot like a bee honeycomb, made from a very thin aluminum foil. Alloy Rigicell Aluminum Corrugated Honeycomb by HexCell with CR-PAA and CR III coatings. 1/8 &#; 2 &#; .-STD &#; 14.5 PPCF &#; PSI crush strength &#; to PSI compressive strength &#; 650 KSI compressive modulus &#; PSI shear &#; 260 KSI shear modulus (L) &#; PSI shear strength &#; 80 KSI shear modulus (W).Compare this core material to Polypropylene honeycomb or a structural foam and you will see that it blows the doors off damn near everything. It is quite difficult to obtain and work with and is exhorbitantly expensive. "So, what comes close?", I asked myself. Well, aluminum is pretty light and strong, used in marine, transport and aircraft applications and is the basis of this core material for a reason. How could I construct a core out of aluminum without the specialised equipment required to make this honeycomb? Use a cheaper, lighter, simpler version of what is already on the market, is the answer. I got samples of Coosa BlueWater 15, 20 and 26, Celtec, Plascore, HDPE and several structural foams and wasn't really impressed with any of them once costs, lead times, shipping, sound damping, insulation and all other factours were considered.Purchase a 2" x 2" x 0. - 0.125" wall square tube from your favourite metal supplier, along with a 0. to 0.125" thick sheet for the skin. Lay out all of the tubes, edge to edge - think roll up sushi mat, and tape (VHB), glue or weld them together. This is your core. You should have something that looks like the inside of corrugated cardboard or a DIY log raft, when you are done. Next lay the skin of your choice over this core material and tape, bond or weld it in place, repeat for the other side.You now have an incredibly strong panel that is completely customisable by changing the width, height and wall thickness of the tubing used for the core, as well as the material type of the core and skin. An all-aluminum sandwich panel will have terrible acoustical and insulative properties, so you will need to make use of radiant barrier coatings, room-in-a-room, Sylomer, Aliphatic Polyurea or other products to resolve these problems. A foam cored panel will have much better insulation, for example, but there is nothing that you can do to it to make it "strong". You can insulate and damp a strong panel by using other products designed to accomplish those tasks.Another option is to make use of a plastic tubing, such as this one, for the core material.This tubing would replace the alloy tubing in the example above and could be skinned with composite sheeting, such as Filon, Phenolic, Vetroresina or even a thin sheet of aluminum or sealed plywood. In a sandwich panel of any design, the skins carry tensile (30-42k for ) and compressive loads (10M PSI for ) and the core carries the shear load ( &#; PSI for 14.5 PPCF Hexcell). So, you want a thick core (taller I-Beam) with high shear strength, and skins with high tensile and compressive strength. Cheap sandwich panels often fail due to weak cores, placing stress on thin/cheap skins, that quickly buckle once they are no longer supported by a core.Get XPS foam from your local hardware store, along with your favourite sheet goods. Insert framing members (dimensional lumber, alloy square tubing, etc) to carry the shear load, as foam sucks at this job. Laminate the framed core, i.e. a picture frame or a tic-tac-toe grid made with tubing and the foam as the picture, plugs or panels within your chosen structure and skin combination. This panel will not have the very best strength-to-weight ratio, but it will be fairly light and will have better insulation than the alloy tubing based panel above. Alternatively, exterior framing can be attached to the panel or the finished camper box, in the form of aluminum, steel or fiberglass angle iron to stiffen the structure and reduce shearing/racking loads on the panel and its quite weak, by comparison, foam core.The strongest core material that I can find on the market has a shear strength of about 3,000 PSI. It is absurdly expensive, has a long lead time, and is quite difficult to work with, according to the manufacturer. An off-the-shelf tube that anyone can buy, has a shear strength 10 TIMES this amount and is quite easy to work with, by way of comparison.

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