How to Choose Pipe Wrench China?

ishiboo said:

I had to make a dirt leg or whatever they call it for installing my LP water heater, which is the first time I've actually needed a pipe wrench. I was able to make due with what I had, but I plan on running some 3/4" and 1" pipe for future air lines and LP to the barn, so it's time I pick up 2-3 appropriately sized pipe wrenches.

1. What size should I buy? I think having something medium-length for the pipe size I'll be working with would be best, I don't want to go real big for leverage as I won't be using them frequently and may have to get into a tight space?

2. Are the Harbor Freight pipe wrenches any good? There are no reviews. The Kobalt ones get pretty poor reviews. I know Ridgid are the gold standard, if I was a plumber that's what I'd buy... but I'm not.

3. Aluminum or cast iron? Seems like all win for aluminum but I'm not sure.

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For that size pipe, I would use something like Rothenberger water pump pliers, assuming you have the hand strength to squeeze the handles and use the pliers (a pipe wrench tightens as you pull, pliers do not).

The cheapo knockoff Chinese stuff usually doesn't work well. Having a finicky adjustment screw will drive you nuts. Go mess with a RIDGID in all positions then try a knockoff- you will understand. I've never used a pro grade pipe wrench where I couldn't spin the adjuster with my thumb alone- even with the wrench vertical (handle end down).

You will not need anything bigger than a 12" pipe wrench, and 10" will work just fine.

I would stick to the better professional brands, such as RIDGID, Reed, LENOX, Rothenberger.

For limited use, I wouldn't spend the premium for aluminum. I would not buy Chinese aluminum wrenches at all.

Unless you plan on working in storebought lengths or having the store cut your pipe, you will need a threader.

FYI: The Harbor Freight knockoff of the smaller RIDGID electric threader is junk- both the drive unit and the dies. Can't imagine that the HF RIDGID 700 knockoff is any better.

Having actually used a RIDGID 300, 700 and Rothenberger , I like the Rothenberger for small piping jobs.

Of course, manual ratchet handles and dies work too. Lots of this stuff for sale all the time.

It is hard to find the smaller electric stuff reasonable on the used market, and a cheap power drive without dies will be an expensive purchase.

You will also need a tripod to hold the pipe while it is cut and threaded. I prefer the chain style compared to the vise style.

In the end, unless you have a lot of piping to do, it may be more cost effective to pay someone to do it or have the stuff cut and threaded at a store (even if they charge you to cut and thread) rather than chase down the tools to do the job.

For that size pipe, I would use something like Rothenberger water pump pliers, assuming you have the hand strength to squeeze the handles and use the pliers (a pipe wrench tightens as you pull, pliers do not).The cheapo knockoff Chinese stuff usually doesn't work well. Having a finicky adjustment screw will drive you nuts. Go mess with a RIDGID in all positions then try a knockoff- you will understand. I've never used a pro grade pipe wrench where I couldn't spin the adjuster with my thumb alone- even with the wrench vertical (handle end down).You will not need anything bigger than a 12" pipe wrench, and 10" will work just fine.I would stick to the better professional brands, such as RIDGID, Reed, LENOX, Rothenberger.For limited use, I wouldn't spend the premium for aluminum. I would not buy Chinese aluminum wrenches at all.Unless you plan on working in storebought lengths or having the store cut your pipe, you will need a threader.FYI: The Harbor Freight knockoff of the smaller RIDGID electric threader is junk- both the drive unit and the dies. Can't imagine that the HF RIDGID 700 knockoff is any better.Having actually used a RIDGID 300, 700 and Rothenberger , I like the Rothenberger for small piping jobs.Of course, manual ratchet handles and dies work too. Lots of this stuff for sale all the time.It is hard to find the smaller electric stuff reasonable on the used market, and a cheap power drive without dies will be an expensive purchase.You will also need a tripod to hold the pipe while it is cut and threaded. I prefer the chain style compared to the vise style.In the end, unless you have a lot of piping to do, it may be more cost effective to pay someone to do it or have the stuff cut and threaded at a store (even if they charge you to cut and thread) rather than chase down the tools to do the job.

I'm not familiar with what Chinese pipe wrenches you are considering. However, I would be cautious with them. There is nothing like a wrench of that nature slipping off and smashing your knuckles and/or smashing something you need. Not to mention the burrs created on the pipes.

Some places rent tools like that, might be an option. I stay away from cheap tools much as possible and not a bit ashamed to purchase used tools that are American made. With that said, long before Harbor Freight started having actual store fronts, around here anyway, I purchased a set of 1 1/4 to 2" end wrenches. It was off one of those semi trailer tool sales that would come once a year or so to our local community center. The chrome crap has flaked off but I have yet to break them. I have used them locked end to end to bust light pole base bolts. I have tossed all my 160 some pounds at them. Very different than a pipe wrench but still, that was darn near 30 years ago. I use them once in a few years but I'm glad I have them. I'll will sometime get a decent set and most likely used. 

Good luck with your repair. 

Isaac 

Additional reading:
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